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Rejuvenation: Greece is a Time, a Place, an Emotion
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Alexander the Great (pictured as largest statue in Greece) was the most powerful man in the world 2350 years ago; his victories included conquering Judea. Resettled Judean Eve shares her thoughts about a recent trip to Saloniki in Macedonia, where 2500 years of Jewish life ended in 1943. They were so much a part of the city. Until they weren’t. Study history to understand the past and also to learn lessons for the future - but don’t study at Aristotle University.
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[Music]
hi everybody
it is almost May 26 2009 teen already
the 20th day they are 6779
you're listening to ETA Rho on
rejuvenation for the Land of Israel
Network hope everybody's doing well this
is gonna be just like a little catch-up
schmooze with you guys because I've been
doing some interviews and then some of
the things that I want to say just gets
pushed out and so I'm gonna just take a
few minutes today to fill you in with
what's been going on in my life and in
my brain for the last couple of weeks
some unpaid public service announcements
at first so that I don't forget in two
weeks we're gonna have we meaning the
network is going to have what I hope is
a marvelous shove what weekend at the
Mount Zion hotel if you're going to be
in Israel if you're gonna be in
Jerusalem and you want to stay at the
hotel there's just a few rooms left but
if you're going to be in the city and
don't need a place to stay you can
certainly join us for some or all of the
programming you could write to me evil
individual comm if you haven't gotten an
email about it and happy to pass your
information along I will be on Sunday
which is chevre lot
I will be at the lunch I'll be hosting
the lunch I'll be also giving a class
right after lunch and doing a walking
tour of the area of ketchup you know and
when it gets a little bit cooler like
around 5:15 5:30 and also on Monday
which for those who just keep one day of
shovel watch will already be what we
call extra clog the day after shovel
what so Monday there is going to be a
bus tour I am going to be guiding
Herodian in the morning and then
there'll be lunch at stay bar with Rev
sphere Eamon who's just awesome then a
few hours out at the ranch with our very
own ari and Jeremy and ending the day
with none other than Josh hastin at the
overlook in the daytime yell so even if
you can't join us for all or part of the
weekend see if you can come on Monday
and it should be really great
partnering with
rafi got some incredible torii teachers
down and of course all night learning
for shovel what some great food
jerusalem on shovel ought I mean really
what could be better so I hope that I
see at least some of you there I'm
speaking of Mizrahi just three weeks ago
I was in the States and Merrick Long
Island for the Mizrahi Shabbat after
Pesa and that was really a wonderful
weekend to want to just give a public
shout out and thank you to the to the
synagogue will have Shalom had a really
a beautiful Shabbat spoke quite a few
times the people there just marvelous
interested questions love Israel love
Judaism and and especially I would like
to thank rabbi IRA Evan the rabbi of the
community who was just so wonderful and
committed and made sure everything ran
beautifully even though his father was
quite ill in the hospital and actually
passed away just a few days after that
Shabbat so first of all condolences to
Rabbi Evan the synagogue there is quite
lucky to have a spiritual leader on that
level and I really felt so welcome it
was just just a beautiful Shabbat and
Sunday morning I was at Enoch at rabbi
Stephen Pierzynski synagogue Banega
Shirin and since it wasn't Shabbat did a
PowerPoint and I had a nice crowd so
altogether it was a quick but I think
really important trip to to the New York
area to talk about Israel's talk about
yachtsman about our independence and you
know just share some of what I do here
with with people wherever I go the next
trip I'm planning is going to be the
very beginning of September not planning
anything during the summer one of my
daughter's is due to give birth at the
end of July so I'm kind of hanging
around the Holy Land don't want to go
too far but but at the beginning of
September now getting things underway
you can always go to my website Eve here
my newsletter which I promise will not
inundate you I think you're gonna get it
maybe four times a year just writing up
the next one with my summer
plans so you could sign up for that and
just see what I'm up to and just writes
me in response to any of the shows I've
written it any thoughts that you have
any future things you'd like to see
which I love to try and fit in and and
you know just be in touch that's really
the most important thing to me so after
the Emmys Rafi Shabbat came back to
Israel for a few days and then took a
personal trip to sell a Nicki to Greece
with my husband and our two oldest
granddaughters who are 11 and 13 wants
it a little just one-on-one with them or
four-on-four or whatever just some just
some special time with them and some of
you may remember last summer we were in
Athens and I was really for the first
time exposed to it learning and learned
about of course because the piqued my
curiosity Greek jewelry where where the
Jews were in Greece the Jews who don't
get along with the husband Ian's about
2200 years ago of course go out into
other parts of the Greek Empire Intel
exam via into today's Athens and and so
that kind of whetted my appetite for
Greece and so that's what we decided to
go back and from Israel it is so close
it was a two and a quarter hour plane
ride like really really close it's this
whole little Mediterranean is just which
at some point was the ancient world and
then in today's parlance or it with
today's traveling it's just like around
the corner I spend more time at the
airport waiting for the flight then I
actually did on the fight itself but so
the Nicki was interesting because
sometimes known as the Salonika it
different than Athens we took a trip one
day out to the countryside to see were
philip ii but the father of Alexander
the Great was married they did a really
great job in reconstructing the tomb
what's called like a tomb you light it's
essentially a little mound and that's
how they buried people back in the day
so they found his grave and you go
underground into this little mound and
that's where they have so they've
incorporated part of the tombs not just
his but other tombs that they found
there with the exhibits with things in
the cases that they found
one of the things that is just so
astonishing is the respect and the
wealth when Alexander the Great or as we
call him in Hebrew actually Alexander
the Macedonian because that is the area
of Macedonia seems to be a little bit of
a kerfuffle these days with North
Macedonia which is a fairly new country
and the fact that they took the name
it's kind of bothered Greeks every
country right and I said I get that I
get that little name stealing identities
feeling thing we've got that going on
here but in any event he it buries his
father with an extraordinary amount of
wealth and and the like the outfits that
they wore in the gold and the crowns and
his last wife is also buried with him
apparently she gets burnt alive when he
dies that's part of but it's considered
the honor because then she follows him
in the world to come that's what they
did they burned everything because I
guess in the smoke and in the sense that
that's how you go into the world to come
in in you know and then in their
religion or how they felt at the time so
that was really fascinating in it and I
was saying to the girls because when you
learn let's say Hanukkah right the big
story that has to do with the Greeks in
Judaism so what we were seeing there was
what we were up against so we talked
about the Greek culture and the
Hellenistic culture and how it had come
here as the Empire spreads and how many
of the Judeans living here were
attracted to that and as usual and
nothing changes and you have the same
thing today
the battle between the people who are
more god-fearing and those who are more
reduced if you will by the Western
culture with at the time then is Greek
culture when when I was with the girls
and I'm explaining to them my
granddaughters that this is what we were
up against so we learn it from our
perspective and then you go out and you
see other parts of the Greek Empire and
you see wow this is the wealth this is
the strength and then get a different
appreciation of what our ancestors are
going through the risks that they took
how difficult it must have been
so in the case of the Maccabees they win
the battle takes 25 years but they are
able to push the Greeks out although of
course as we see not completely and
eventually the Hasmoneans
fall to that same Greek culture that
they were initially had pushed out of
the Land of Israel but you you just you
go back into that time and into that
time period and see of course you know
what else is happening Alexander the
Great is out here way before the
Hasmoneans - 3 3 3 is when he really
conquers as part of the world that has
minions not until about 60 or so years
later that you kind of see the process
and how that's going and it's so
important because most of us just learn
things from one perspective
which is natural that's whatever
perspective the country we're living in
the culture we're living in the religion
that we're dealing with is going to
teach us if it's so important to - if
you can try and see the other side it
shouldn't be threatening it doesn't mean
you're gonna go fall to the other side
and say oh wow like I see that they had
a point and even if you do that's okay
very few things black and white in this
world but to be able to in truly a
privilege and I'm really grateful for
the opportunity to be able to do that to
go out and some of these ancient
cultures like the Greek culture like the
Roman culture which is of course a
little bit later and and destroys our
temple and then takes over the Land of
Israel for hundreds of years to go and
see it for from their side of things and
and I spoke about this has it been to
Italy a few times the how difficult it
is to walk around Rome to see that the
beautiful buildings the Colosseum and
the major signs of the Roman Empire
very often came at the cost to my people
the Colosseum built with money that was
taken from the temple the gladiator
games were my ancestors who had to fight
there which is as I said at the time
when I think I spoke about this in an
earlier show why I had my family learn
Torah in the Colosseum because the sages
at the time said that where the Romans
play their evil games we will one day
learn Torah and of course at the time
everyone's like yeah right you got to be
kidding
the Romans are so strong but here we
were we we played a long game and we are
still here and we do still have our
faith and we are still learning our
Torah and see there's a these are little
things maybe they're they don't mean
much but they're symbolic in my personal
life and that's really what I can do I
can't go after the big-ticket items like
that I'm not an emperor I'm not a
president and I'm not a queen not gonna
make changes on a major level because I
can make changes in in my personal life
and with my family and bring some
symbolism in and you can all do that we
can all do that then that also is
meaningful and and can change something
I hope and and as I said even if for the
feeling that okay so these cultures were
here and they tried to destroy us and
where are they now and here we are back
in our land still with fidelity to the
same God and to his Torah and those are
the things that when when situations get
rough need to keep us through so that
was fascinating in terms of Sola Nicki
and Macedonia and Alexander the Great
and we took a summoning key itself I was
not impressed with it is not a pretty
city at all and my there's little
pockets there's little old streets at
little quaint neighborhoods but in
general the architectures was very
nondescript and before they got a hold
of themselves and apparently you know
they took down a lot of their beautiful
buildings and what you see there is not
impressive and also what's very
distressing and the same thing I had
seen in Athens was graffiti everywhere
and it made me think about New York and
how a few years ago they really cleaned
up New York and took the graffiti off
the subways and crime went down and I
could see that because you have this
graffiti and you have okay yeah there
are some really artistic things but most
of them are just scrawling and even in
the parks where the kids play
four-letter words all over them the
swings and the slides and it just really
gives a sense of and it's not true but
it gives a sense of the whole city being
a slum or the whole city being a place
where people don't really care where no
one's in control where anybody of the
spray-paint can can just go and to face
anything they want
and it just it's very unsettling saw the
same thing in Athens acts the
explanation that we got in Athens I
don't know if it's the same for sulla
nikky is that the leaders when the Greek
economy pretty much tanked about ten
years ago and they still haven't come
out of it they're hoping but just as a
segue the guy that I hired to drive our
van to take us out to the countryside
one day it's like is I think it's like a
chemical engineer he's some kind of
engineer but the company closed and now
he's he's driving for a living so you
could see that they're still not where
they want to be in the economy still
hasn't recovered a lot of the young
people have left the country and it's
really still trying to pull its way out
of that but we were told that part of
the reason for the graffiti is to give
the young people a place to vent and if
maybe if they're spray-painting
buildings then they won't riot or they
they won't show how upset they are in
other ways
so maybe that's true but it doesn't seem
to have it doesn't draw you in and it
doesn't seem to you know leave you with
the feeling of again that this place
somebody's in charge of this place so
that was upsetting that we had a Jewish
tour one day and all day tour and that
was really very very sobering the
history of Saloniki there's an old
Jewish history there Jews there since
again since you know the time where
there is a Greek Empire Jews going there
you have Jews that also came there from
Ashkenazi during the Crusades the Jews
who were having a rough time of it let's
say in France came there later on
especially during the Inquisition you
have a lot of Jews who are fleeing the
Inquisition in the Iberian Peninsula who
also come there at different points in
its history Jews were the majority of
the population Saloniki as recently as
the last century close to 70% ben-gurion
goes there the port was so met worked so
many Jews worked in the port of Saloniki
that it was closed on Shabbat and
ben-gurion went there in the in the late
1930s he wanted it build the ports of
Haifa and of Tel Aviv here in
of Israel and he went to look for Jews
who know how to build and work at ports
and so you he went to Saloniki some of
the Jews didn't want to come to land
visit all that the Arabs were rioting
imagine in the 30s before settlements
before the State of Israel the the Arabs
here have pogroms 1929 massive pogroms
1936 to 1939 rioting killing Jews has
nothing to do with anything that you've
been told it's obviously clearly a
religious war this is not about land
that's for a different time a different
show but anyhow so some people wouldn't
come and ben-gurion they were afraid but
a few thousand people did come with him
and they were saved from the Nazis
because they were safe in the Land of
Israel one of the points to ponder of a
few that I'm going to be throwing out at
you in the next few minutes the Jews of
salah nikki really hadn't suffered from
anti-semitism or from the crusades from
a lot of things during the years
fascinating history some of the things
that I have learned over the years the
followers of schapp tights v what we
call sub t anism in the 17th century the
false messiah many of them from their
300 families which at the time when you
talk about a family you're talking about
really a large extended family it's like
10,000 people and they built a mosque
there because eventually spoiler alert a
shop tight speak and converting to islam
very charismatic person said he was
messiah ends up being converting to
islam at the pain of death and a lot of
his followers follow him into islam and
the mosque that is built in southern
icky
it is a mosque but it also has Stars of
David on it and you can see that there
like it the work what they were called
at the time was the Greek word for what
we would call shwarma which is me that
turns around on a spit so the term was
given to them because they turned around
so you could see that at the time when
they were still in solo Nicky they were
technically Muslims but they were still
doing a lot of things that were Jewish
what happens at some point a few years a
few years later I believe in the 18th
century there is a population exchange
with Turkey the turkey expels Christians
who go to Greece and Greece sends over
the Moslems from there
who a population exchange if you will
the religious population exchange who go
to Turkey the Jews then these Jews so it
converted to Islam then go to Turkey and
then they're completely lost and there's
no more even traces of Judaism there
they completely go into into Islam so if
you're ever in Turkey and you know
they're definitely Jewish DNA sourced
out X Jews among the population so a lot
of really really interesting history but
where it of course ends is in 1943 the
Nazis come there and this is the highest
rate except for a small area of
Lithuania these are the highest
percentage of Jews that are killed by
the Nazis ninety six percent of the Jews
of Salonika are murdered by the Nazis
just like just an absolutely enormous
number and the guide that took us around
that day her family is her father was
one of the few people who did survive
the camps she gave us a few reasons for
that we went around there was a small
neighborhood that was built right near
where the train station was for the Jews
living in the port many of whom were
were not wealthy at all they many of the
Jews there were poor there was a massive
fire in 1917 which burnt a large part of
the city and many of the Jewish homes
were burned and a lot of the Jews were
left homeless and so this little
neighborhood was built for them a couple
of neighborhoods were built for them so
they would have a place to live apropos
of course connecting with the fires that
we had here in Israel on Thursday and on
Friday were a good part of me vomo Dean
of the community the Carlebach community
I think 40 out of 50 homes there were
burned town and another any kyboots was
burnt so and it's just devastating and
we're already people already collecting
money and doing things to help these
people rebuild their homes and at least
have some clothes now or get back on
their feet a lot of people that I know
know people who live there and there's
just a tremendous wave of support but
these fires even today when we have
modern firefighting equipment and a lot
of countries around here including
Greece
in equipment and planes to help Israel
fight the fires we Egypt also Croatia we
really got some help from a lot of the
neighbors around here as Israel gives
help when needed and that's so important
but these fires can can be just
devastating and totally destroy not just
homes but can really destroy
civilizations it's one of the theories
of how the Bronze Age ended and the Iron
Age began in the Mediterranean area were
droughts and famine and fires so and
anybody who lived in London or knows the
history of London of course or of San
Francisco just to name two places where
fires really devastated things so here
we had that in Israel thank God no loss
of life but in salah nikki they have
that in 1917 and many of the jews lost
their homes and we're living in this
these little neighborhoods so one of the
neighborhoods is near the train station
and there was kind of a perfect storm of
terrible things that happened one of
them was the rabbi at the time who was a
Nazi collaborator and who said to the
Jews you shouldn't worry you're just
gonna get resettled and so nobody's
guard was up and they were kind of
lulled into feeling that it was okay to
go where the Germans said to go and now
of course was a horrific thing that he
did he ends up surviving the war but
dying of typhus apparently just a little
bit after world war ii was over another
thing that also led to such a high
percentage of jews being killed is that
their families were very close-knit and
as a result people who might have been
able to escape earlier did not they
stayed together and and of course until
it was too late did the neighbors help
well there were some righteous Gentiles
in Greece we learned about that last
year when we were in the area of Athens
about Christians who took the Jews up
into the hills and hid them really at
the risk of their own lives
not so much insulin icky they really
didn't do that the Nazis also worked a
lot of propaganda before they took the
Jews out and even in a place where as I
said the Jews were really part and
parcel of the town very much the fiber
of the town already these anti-semitic
feelings the other points of
under had already infiltrated into the
local population and so they weren't as
quick perhaps to help as they might have
been a few years earlier another thing
that wasn't good for them is that they
only spoke one language they spoke
Ladino which is a mix of Greek and if he
broke out of a personal language for the
Jews but as a result when the Nazis took
them to the camps they couldn't
understand what the Nazis were saying
they couldn't understand the orders they
didn't know what was going on and so
they were of no use to the Nazis in
terms of slave labor so they killed many
of them the guide that we had feels that
her family survived because they also
spoke German and so they were kept alive
so that they could do some translating
but also because they had some value to
the Nazis and so there were a few things
that were going on here but the numbers
are really just astronomical and here
you have a community that it existed on
and off numbers bigger numbers smaller
for a good two and a half millennia that
in between March just between March and
August in 1943 disappears and now you
have about a thousand maybe 1,200 Jews
that are living there some who you know
who survived and came back but you don't
have much in the way of Jewish life
there's one there's one synagogue there
that that the original synagogue from
before the war that many synagogues this
was one that the Nazis didn't destroy
because the Red Cross turned it into
their headquarters there's another
synagogue that's in it's in use that was
built it's actually an office building
now because the land was valuable in
order to fund the synagogue so the Jews
sold the land and office building was
built there and then they got a little
area there that they have as their
synagogue but many of the people some of
the people that we met there their
children are intermarried they they're
not even though there is a day school
there a lot of them are just not
involved really in the tour world which
is just so disheartening just one of the
the saddest things of all but so it's an
interesting place to visit understand if
you go what you're going to be hearing
and maybe the most difficult thing of
all because we also we
into the trains we saw how the Jews were
walked from this little neighborhood
which became like a transit camp and
then by the time they get on the trains
which are of course are just cattle cars
they realizing they're not just being
transported and something terrible is
going on here but they can't it's too
late to escape and and so the trains are
there and you see the tracks and you see
the proximity and there's plaques up and
you understand and you understand you
know what the last moments in Intel
Aniki were like that's really the only
time that day that I broke down out
because I said I said to one of my
granddaughters so if we had been here I
would have told you to run run run
faster on far
never forget that you're a Jew tell
everybody what happened here and um so
just thinking about possibly a situation
just like that in that same scenario but
it was too late to run it was too hard
to run or whatever it is and they all
they all go to their deaths together but
you see you see the signs around
everywhere you go even if you just take
a regular walking tour although Nicky
there's signs everywhere this is where
the Jews had this and this is where
there was a storm really really like I
said before part of the fiber of the
town but then we went to Aristotle
University which the campus is on and
there's another University there too the
campus is about 80 football fields it's
an enormous campus and it's built on the
ancient Jewish graveyard of close to
350,000 graves
we're not talking about Holocaust graves
because they're not buried these are the
the many many many centuries of Jews
that live there and that were buried
there and the Nazis apparently gave the
Jews six days to move the cemetery to
reinter which is ridiculous and that's
nothing and obviously they weren't able
to do that the rest of the work of this
ethnic cleansing because there's no
other word for it was done after the war
and not by the Nazis but by the locals
apparently there are buildings all over
Sanne Nicki that their floors are made
out of Jewish gravestones just piled up
everywhere so we went there there's one
brave that's that's left and that's it
and you look around this campus and the
students and the buildings and all of it
is built on desecrated Cemetery of Jews
and that's already not the Nazis that's
the population afterwards so that
definitely gives one pause well because
a lot of times people will blame I
couldn't do anything and I couldn't say
anything and they were too strong but
then what happened afterwards and really
to destroy it a graveyard has to be just
the most these people can't aren't
defending themselves you know so and
this ties into something that just
happened last week here in the Land of
Israel because of some people in there I
don't know what but definitely not one
of the smarter or best moments in modern
day modern state Israel decided that the
area of Jericho oh that was back in 93
with Oslo yes the area of Jericho should
be given over to Palestinian Authority
and as a result the largest graveyard
that we know of from the Second Temple
period because the Hasmoneans were very
much based to get back to Hasmoneans in
Jericho of thousands of Jewish graves
caves and Jewish graves and and ossuary
were desecrated ha shocking right we're
desecrated by people who are trying to
throw the Jews out of the land so why
wouldn't they desecrate once again a
Jewish graveyard and so these bones were
gathered and were reinterred in cardamom
which is a community halfway between
Jerusalem and Jericho and so you see the
same things over and over and over again
it's not enough to try and and rid the
world of living Jews but but the
desecration of the cemeteries and of the
dead Jews as well and the theft of
whatever was there in the ossuary
and it's um but this what happens here
in Israel was and I was thinking about
it because I just been to Selma Nicki
and seeing this tremendous graveyard
that is no more and it's just
mind-boggling
this is the fact that this happened on
our watch here in Israel better or worse
I'd leave you to answer that question on
your own the same thing with destroying
Jewish houses if they're destroyed by
enemies of the Jewish people so is that
better or worse than when the Jewish
government sends the army to do that a
few months ago I was up and to pull up
with a group with a bus trip that I had
for when Israel fund and we had lunch
with with Raya Raya is she has a cafe
and she's also the sister of Talia
Kahana Benjamin and Talia Kahana who
were murdered in front of their leaving
six orphans many years ago and she and
her family moved down from the Galilee
to help raise their six kids who didn't
have parents and another brother of her
so his house was destroyed a few days
ago in tupola because of whatever
because of the lack of normal law in
Judea and Samaria and even though we've
been promised that Jewish homes won't be
destroyed anymore so there went that and
so it's fascinating to go out of the
country it's fascinating to see other
cultures to see where my people were
were my people how my people survived or
didn't survive in different places and
then to come home to an incredible
country strong country a country with a
great future but a country that still
needs a little tweaking and to
understand that is to also understand
the responsibility that we all who are
alive in this time period have that
certain mistakes have been made but
maybe we shouldn't keep making them and
sometimes you can't blame your enemies
sometimes you need to look in the mirror
or look around you and say no the buck
really does stop here and and then
there's things that we need to sort out
and priorities that we have to get in in
order and you know to keep this to keep
this whole thing going so as usual my
brain whirring with it whir are ing
about the past about the president about
the future about the lessons that we can
learn
from history the good things the bad
things the leadership both religious and
non and were they were the rabbi of
Salonika completely failed his people in
the early 1940s and would they have
still gone to their deaths maybe but
maybe some of them would have been saved
and so that was a tremendously painful
thing to learn about and so we have to
just like again really really really
learn from history and try to not to not
do that again to collect to connect the
dots again so I'm very very grateful
that I have the opportunity to go to
these places to learn the lessons there
to bring them back to home and always
always weave them integrate them into my
guiding to get a greater understanding
of what's happened and and how we can
make sure that the future is definitely
better than the past so that's it for
now I'm tired I'm gonna I'm gonna go to
sleep I have a long week ahead of me
thank you all for listening and love
again like I said to get your feedback
Eve at the Land of Israel and I hope to
see some of you like I said in a couple
of weeks or at some point when you come
through to Israel so take care everybody
thanks to Ben and to Tabitha and
everybody who keeps the Land of Israel
Network going because it's not it's not
easy and it's a really important thing
to do and I'm just very privileged to UM
be able to have a platform for the
things that run through my brain so have
a wonderful week everybody drink a lot
let's keep those you know hopefully
we're done with the fires here and in
the time of the all mayor the time of
the Oh mayor and the time of the farmers
between the hail and the fires this is a
very very difficult time especially for
our the harvesters of the grains and and
the weather and it just doesn't make it
easy you work all winter work all winter
on your fields and then in half an hour
of a fire or of a hailstorm or whatever
it is or of a dust storm of the
tremendous heat wave it can all be lost
and that's where you realize your
connection to God and because we see him
we see Hashem both in history which I've
discussed and in nature and and to
respect that and to work with that and
pray that it's good and that all these
things happen in their time so that's
enough for now Eve Harrow rejuvenation
on the land of his own network take care
of your buddy
good bye for now
[Music]
hi everybody
yves herro host of rejuvenation join us
on the land of israel network for the
shovel what of a lifetime where i will
be giving a special class that weekend
and guiding Herodian on Monday as the
bus goes out to the farm so join us for
the shovel out of a lifetime in just a
few weeks Thursday through Monday June 6
through 10 2019 at the Jerusalem Mount
Zion hotel looking for