Pt. 03: Shoe Contructed - The Chalitzah Shoe Constructed

[Music] let's review the names of the parts of the shoe this is called the shaft it goes up the leg this is the akiv which is frequently translated as the hill although in modern shoes the part that goes over here is called the hill in a lockheed paralance the part which goes over here is the hill in english this area is called the counter this area is called the upper and this is the sole these are the crossing or the jamartas we have three of those and these are the loops that they go into the lulu's step one is to take a template and trace it onto your leather to get the right size and shape of your leather the template that we use is a template that supposedly is mucus to vishma salant there are actually different designs in the museums the shoe that's used today the contemporary shoe is pretty much universal there's no serious differences between the size and shape of the contemporary issue but in the stuff that you can see in the museums there are small differences so you have to cut out the leather so the next step is going to be to wet the shoe and you know line it up the top and bottom the two parts the top and bottom and punch holes to punch holes it's smartest and easiest and do the best job if you're using multi-punch the first benefit of multi-punch is that it gives you a few holes at a time so the four punch that i use and it gives me four holes at a time it also gives me proper spacing they won't be too close and the one could lose the integrity of this of the shoe if it made the holes too close to each other if a person put any pressure on it it could rip when i'm using this punch i have to make sure myself not to go too close to the edge of the of the leather because i go too close to the edge again if there's any pressure it could rip a certain tight spot you can't use a four punch punch because it's either a sharp corner or it's a tight spot and then i use my double punch which gives me the space the right spacing with fewer pieces so i can get into a tighter spot once i have the leather cut to size and properly punched i'm able to dye it to dye it you have to get the right kind of dye and you take it that way you dip it in you smear it around there's a there's a cleanse to how to spread it with that you shouldn't see the brush strokes they do circles and you fill them in double coat it and then we polish it afterwards that it should shine and look upright the meaning is to do an exterior stitch which which means is that you see the lacing on the finished product sometimes particularly on clothing the stitches are internal the thread is hidden over here in the khalitse shoe and this has to do with making this holistic shoe match the shoe of the time of khazal their shoes the lacing was exposed so we make shoes with exposed lacing how to keep the lace in place is that when you start a new stitch a new piece of lace you go you backstitch one previous stitch you redo that stitch and then you can go right up when you're done with the stitching the sides then you can begin putting on the buttons and loops the cons to get these buttons to line up properly is we use the same punch on the button and the same punch on the shoe itself the holes will be properly equidistant the way we hold it on is that there's one stitch from the outside and internally it's sewn over itself and that holds it in place it on the normal usage that should never undo itself how are these buttons made the three slits made in this leather they're aligned with each other and we take the tail we wrap it around stick it through all three slits you have to line it up you usually have to use a pin or something to hold all those slits in place with each other to get the tail through it all at once it takes a minute but once you have it you have a beautiful button that will last forever on this side we have a loop different styles of loops but this is a very basic style one solid piece of leather with a slit inside it's a big it's big enough and loose enough that we can fit the button right through it needs to fit through smoothly and easily because when the lady takes off the shoe she has to open that button with just one hand so it has to be able to fit through easily that they can do with just one hand that wasn't so hard and we put on the shoe so we have to close the buttons just for practical reasons is that we start with the lowest button then the middle button and then the top button then we have to wrap the straps around they have to cross each other and try as much as possible to lay one on top of the others not just not just to cross in one spot like an x but to as much as possible sit one on top of the other and we put these straps in all the empty spaces so between the rows of buttons there's two gaps and the back of the shoe there's two gaps and we wrap the shoe the laces between the gaps in the front between the buttons and then around the back and there's in the cutouts and then we wrap it around the foot itself and that is to resemble the idea of the sandal the straps ran around the person's leg we tied two knots because they need to cache the shakayama so we tie one not very tight that it should stay on the second knife we tie loose just as a favorite to the woman because she has to untie it by herself with one hand and then we tie a bow in the bow she can easily pull off she opens it with just one hand and she opens the next knot with just one hand and she has to pull him around out around the straps when she takes off the shoe she has to take off the bottom button first because if she takes off the top button and the shoe opens it could force the hose's foot on its own but before she opens the top button she puts her hand on the back of the shoe that it shouldn't fall off of his foot by itself she opens the top button and then she sticks her right hand underneath the shoe while it's still pressed against the floor did not lift it for me and she slides it out wraps up the laces and she throws it [Music]