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A secret Jewish community in Africa.
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Morocco is a country filled with culture and color. Join me along my ten-day road trip through this fascinating historical country. We will drive along stunning coastlines, rugged mountains, visit ancient cities, interact with locals and visit the vanishing Jewish communities. In this segment, we will be visiting Mellila, a Spanish exclave in Africa - a slice of Europe on the Africa continent. We will expose the unknown Jewish community that has been thriving on this tiny piece of land since 1860.
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Morning.
[music]
Good morning from Morocco. Okay, we have
to wake up early. 5:00 in the morning.
We're heading out for the next leg in
the journey.
First stop is Casablanca.
Long drive, almost 3 hours.
All righty,
>> Sablanca.
Okay, so we made the stop on the way to
FZ for Shaharis
Shalom.
[music]
Let's have a look.
>> This is um Eric. He's from Montreal.
Look.
>> Yeah, my parents. So yeah, his parents
still live in concert. Look, Eric Bal,
what's it called? Balul and he likes
Montreal kosher.
>> Yes,
>> did he like
>> When is the last time you've been to
Montreal?
>> Last time to visit about a year ago.
>> Okay. Moved now. Bigger place. Moroccan
beach.
>> Moroccan beach. Jame
>> overnight stop in Fez. Took a new flat
in a development. Half of the is still
yet unbuilt. Look. Anyway, so
>> Fez.
[music] Look at this. The king's palace.
[music]
>> The Jewish neighborhood in Fez. This is
the Ban.
All the entries. Look. Look how empty
today. That's it. Nobody came today.
Look at this
direction.
Look how massive.
No.
Interesting story here. This is the
famous Ky of Sulika.
The girl that was executed a kid Shashem
beheaded. That's the story of Sula in
French. She was executed. She was born
in 1817 Tangers Tangier. She was
assassinated in F. She was transported
[music] to Fz father had to pay the
costs of transporting her here in 1834.
Somebody decided it's uh few different
versions that she converted to Islam and
she obviously rejected that claim and
she refused [music] to
to renounce her faith. Yiddish and she
was executed was 17 years old. She was
beheaded. Terrible story.
This is the
Hello. How are you?
>> Look at this.
Let's see if it's open.
Look at this
street in the mela.
Look.
Omar
>> he was
>> Omar his was here he's like sham he take
care of
>> even when the Jews were here
>> yes
>> okay when was the last time you had
praying here
>> same now that's uses for special [music]
occasions some holidays but not every
day
>> but the other one they use more the
>> yes
>> what's the other one called
>> that's
they use for special occasions for you
holidays
>> holidays
he's in the same
>> is the name after him
>> ah has been restored. Look at [music]
>> women.
>> The women on top. Wow. Very high.
>> And that's the to
>> Oh, wow. How do you get to the mikvah?
>> Come there if you want.
>> Can I go down? Yes.
>> If somebody's lazy, maybe somebody lazy
is coming late to Davening, you can go
jump straight in and roll around in the
mikvah.
>> The mikvah.
You want a to
smell?
Look at this. Make sure. Oh, no stairs.
Jump in. And this is the hole from the
shield. You want to jump in straight
from the shield.
>> They built extension. This is the double
loft that they used to do. The security
here hidden uh secret police. The police
asked us to go away. The regular police,
the uniformed police, and he came and
told them, "No, no, let them stay. Park
here. It's not It's illegal to park
here." And he's going to walk with us to
make sure we're safe. Plaza Sepharin
where they do silver.
Let's have a look. Hanging
to make it hot.
>> What is he doing? Silver plating it. I
think he's silver plating it. Now he's
spreading it out. It's melted.
This is silver.
>> Yeah.
>> Copper
tin tin.
>> Look how he's putting every
piece of silver. So everything
everything handmade.
>> Wow.
See, he does the the nails for the
handles.
Afterwards, this becomes like the nails.
Up to the famous tanneries here. Let's
go. This tanner is more than 900 years
old. Let's check it out. First
>> Thank you. First, he gives you
>> mint. The mint inside.
>> Shouldn't smell the
>> z. Yeah, you shouldn't smell the tannery
because it smells awful.
>> One is
>> obviously they sell all these leather
goods. That's why they offer free entry.
That's the main purpose.
>> He's polishing the leather.
>> Nice.
>> Look at the hides here.
>> Those really smell terrible. Oh,
>> can I give you some brief idea about the
process?
>> Yes. How does it work?
>> Process work. We put the skins in the
white vats. They stays there one week.
What's in the vet
>> in there? Water, limestone, and the
pigeon dropping. All are by experience
centuries ago. Even the cars.
>> Oh, somebody's working there. Look,
>> we do sheep, we do goats, we do lamb and
cows.
>> Oh, wow. He's collecting that heights.
Look at that boy.
>> Question. It doesn't let me Google who
created this tenery. 15th century there
was much much less
>> uh bber here in
>> in F
>> in Medina it has only one door
>> very big door ceramic of 13th century
maybe more
>> with the
old so you think that Jews create that's
why they said Jews created this
>> I I think because there was only Jews
living in this area
>> what's the name of the town the full
name shara shara
>> beautiful blue gauge
Look at this guy.
Bing gun.
Visit the Rambam's house. So the Rambam
lived here for about 5 years. 1159 to uh
early 1165. So they escaped from
Coridova because the Almo took over
southern Spain.
>> You bought the Rambam restaurant
in May.
>> Yeah.
>> Yes. Here. Okay. You can see. Please
come.
>> And now please just to let the other the
other Jewish to know now it's called.
Okay. Come on.
>> This is where you wrote the game.
>> Yeah.
>> The Jewish philosopher. Please come on.
Come on.
Come. Please ma'am. Come
>> picture. And he was living in this
house.
>> You made this restaurant or you bought
it? Yeah, it's mine.
>> Mushi bin may.
>> Yeah.
>> Couscous hexi from the raam.
>> We have we have we have also like camel
burger and everything. We just changed
the name. It's called now sutva. But
this is the house of Musa May. It is 12
windows means 12 hours. Okay. A 60 wood
means 60 minutes. Some of them it's
almost disappear because of the time
because it is the oldest water clock in
all over the world. It contained 14th
century. It is the first first water
clock in the world and the second one in
Cordoba in Spain. Okay. It's work by
mechanism and only the technique of
mosa.
Okay. And there's another tube and
there's a bow. So if 60 seconds there's
a drop of water. The W getting full it
give to the other windows there. Other
windows it's imagine that the the bowl
number four is getting full.
>> Yeah.
>> So the ball getting down
>> moves down
>> to the bowl and it's like a town of 10
hits.
>> Yeah. And this is how they was measuring
the time and day duty in the P.
>> March 1956
Morocco finally gained independence from
France. This was followed a couple of
months later by Spain who controlled
part of the coastal areas. But Spain did
not give over all its territories, kept
some to itself, claiming that it's been
founded by Spain way before Morocco ever
existed. Let's explore one of these
territories today [music] called Malia.
We're heading to
Spain on the African continent. We're
crossing the border on the African
continent to Europe essentially, which
is weird. and we're going to visit a
very interesting community. Welcome to
the border with Europe. Spain has passed
the Moroccan border exiting Morocco. Now
we're going to Malia, Spain.
Hello, Rhuda is here in the house.
Hello. Wow.
>> Finally. Finally.
>> Welcome to Malia.
>> Welcome to Malia. Ah,
is remarkable
and very interesting. You cross into the
European Union on African soil. The time
zone changes, the currency, the
language, and the culture changes just
within stepping through a border along
the African territory. A Jewish
community that's over 660 years old.
Let's explore this vibrant community and
find out more about them.
>> Rough statement sent me.
>> Oh, wow. How long ago?
He sent you here to be Kiru.
>> Yeah. To Kiru. I make Ku here. I I'm the
M and the school.
>> Okay.
>> The school of Malia. It's the all the
the the the only school
not karish in Europe that it's separate
and and kids and and babies and and
girls
>> you know
>> and I I I make another
road because I want to show you the the
the the building of the area
there's a separate government for
>> Yeah. This is the Plaza Espña.
This is the the big
>> Oh, Malia.
>> This is the building of the Malia.
>> I show you. I show you.
>> You see the the Mind?
>> Yeah.
>> This is the building of Jewish people.
>> Up up. You see the the the the
met?
>> Yes. The
>> name is Oza. It's the big synagogue.
Yeah.
Kosha grocery. Look. Let's get inside.
Fully stock kosher grocery. Seriously.
>> Hello. Look. We've got crisps.
We have cheeses,
ice cream,
pizza, whatever you name it. Schneider's
wines
and a Delhi full of Delhi.
Can you hear the call for prayer? So,
Muslims, Christians, Jews, everyone live
lives in peace right here.
Nobody speaks a word of English. So,
what's your name? Sir Nom Nom.
>> Anom Morat.
>> Morat. Morat. Espanol. He says tranquil.
Malia. How do you say Malia?
>> Tranquila.
>> Malia.
>> Tranquil.
>> Tranquila. To Malia airport.
There. The flight's going to Seilla,
Malaga, Madrid, Malaga, Alra. Only to
Spain. Only Spanish destinations. That's
the airport.
You see how small Malia is? Look. See
that villages? That's Moroccan villages.
This is the fence beyond the border.
You can see the Moroccan flag literally
there. Unbelievable. 22
June 22 um asylum seekers tried to cross
the border here. Look at look at the
>> Wow. So you're asylum seeking Europe.
But why did the Moro the Moroccan
soldier look why did the Moroccan
soldiers want to protect it? They want
to they want is it the interest? It's
not here that they came here. Then
thousands will come to Morocco.
>> They call him escape. Escape.
>> Yeah. A deal.
>> Deal. They have a deal with the
>> Mario. This is where the tragedy
happened.
>> Mario Chino.
>> This is where it happened. They closed
it since all the all the gates only
open. Yeah.
>> Only
>> Spain. Morocco. You're in the EU next to
Morocco. It's hilarious.
If you cross this fence, you gain an
hour. This is the hour. late. We're hour
later than there. We crossed literally
the fence and we lost an hour. Look.
Look how beautiful. Look how beautiful.
Okay, this is where Malia finishes. It's
the end of Malia. Wow. Look at this.
The old the old city. That's the old
town. Yeah.
>> Old town.
>> This is Spain. And this is Morocco. So
if they they're trying to catch fish, if
they catch fish too far, they're going
to get Moroccan fish.
Hello.
You're trying to catch Moroccan fish.
>> Anglas,
>> you speak English?
>> Yeah. Yeah.
>> You're trying to catch Moroccan fish.
>> Yeah, because there are very
>> the best. The Moroccan fish is the best.
Yeah.
>> Yeah.
>> Trying to get Moroccan fish. Okay.
>> That ferry takes you to Malaga
and then you have the old town there.
And that's it. That's the entire place.
That's it. Pity place. Yeah. The Royal
Marine.
guard in the border.
Another two feries. You can take them to
Spain and elsewhere. Rented an apartment
in a residential building. Happens to be
right next to one of the six shields
here. And look who's next to us. We are
a Bit
Alive. Unbelievable
kosher. I live perfect place of shops.
Let's go to shop
restaurant.
Let's find the shield. One of the six
shields. As I said, going to D tonight.
Let's find it first. Make sure we know
where it is. Looks like Spain and it's
actually in Africa.
All the cars.
Espanol.
Espanol. One of the six shields.
Petrael. Couldn't see anything here, but
up on the second floor is the sh we're
going to down tonight.
Good morning from Aaliyah, Spain.
All right, we're heading to Shu. Woke up
early Sunday. I think [music] it's 8:00.
Doesn't matter. Let's find the tango
here. [music] So peaceful here.
Wow, this is crazy. But look how empty
the streets are. We're walking on the
road. It's a very quiet place. But look
at [panting] that.
Wow. Oh, it's so difficult. We're
walking to Shi already. 20 minutes. At
least we got the suns sunrise. [music]
Let's
Let's try and find a taxi. It's getting
late. Looking for a taxi. Guess who
turned up? Shem
London. London.
London. Wait,
wait,
>> wait, wait. See?
Okay. See showing us. He took us for a
ride. Give us a lift. He's taking us to
the shoe. Ah, this Oarua.
Look at the shoar.
Okay. Thank you. Gracias. Put that
here.
One of the community members told me he
lives now in Mexico that he's been to
probably 40, 50 countries, never seen
such a shoot. Look at this. They have a
fascination with [music]
oil lamps.
Wow.
>> No, your your grandfather.
>> My grandfather.
Elizabeth
family from Iran
speak
[music]
is going to show us around here.
Can I see it? This is the K
kindergarten. Kita Olive. Wow. So, this
these tables are set up here in the
summer cuz they have a restaurant here.
You see they do barbecue
in the this is the makeshift restaurants
for two months, July and August. Thank
you. We have a bit of here and a coin.
This is the original first Dianess
in the school.
This is the six. Not sure if it's grade
six.
>> Six.
>> Six. Okay. You see here?
>> N.
>> This is boys.
>> This is boys this side and girls on this
side and the makit in the middle. See?
So they have one teacher but can see the
screen but separated.
Wow.
boys and girls at the same time.
So this are four and four. These are the
girls shul and grades one to six. They
have a separate shana
Miriam. Tamar
Gabriella.
>> Ken Hannah. Wow. Tamar. These are the
girls sho.
This is the mik.
This is the kyla mik. Got in the ball.
Something is going on. There's a lot of
helicopters coming. The third one out.
It's hazy and we're hearing the ferry
beeping non-stop. So hopefully no no
tragedy here.
>> We have here Francisco. Great driver. If
you come to Malia, I'm going to send you
his number. Numero
>> number one.
>> Number one driver.
>> Time to head out now to back to Morocco.
>> And to continue our journey,
>> Francisco is working with the Jewish
community. He takes the
>> rabbi.
See, see
you can takeard
maruga sagora tantia.
>> Oh, so he can take you to Morocco as
well. So you can land here.
>> Yeah.
Wow.
>> Arabic. Yeah, here we go. This is the
rift mountain range. Rift the rift. The
rift
>> say Ireland.
>> See Morocco on the on the rift
mountains.
>> Yes,
>> Morocco.
Look at this color. Look, [music]
this is the Rift Mountains on the other
side with Mediterranean there.
Unbelievable colors. [music and singing]
The red
Hours
of twisting and turning to cross over
the rift mountains. Look at this.
Literally hours of turning.
Let's do this. Most difficult drive I've
ever had.
We've been doing 6 hours along the rift
mountains crossing mountain passes. Not
a single straight road. You're talking
about hundreds of bends. Hundreds.
>> [music]
>> Wow, look at it.
And the blue city starts right here.
Yeah.
>> Yeah.
>> Okay. Welcome
from Chuan.
Just passed the entire Rift Mountains.
That was a that was a drive. Crazy
story. I might post this after I return
because, you know, I don't want to scare
anyone. We had amazing police
protection. Police made sure we are
looked after. They they took us with
light and sirens from the water. They
sent us undercover police. Um I'll share
the stories I might have shared already
by now. What happened was as we passed
the Rift Mountains.
It's like two lanes for hours turning
and turning and turning hundreds and
hundreds of turns. A guy um with the old
I was par I wanted to take make a stop
at the side. I pulled in and a guy was
beeping me and showing me something and
he had a old yellow Mercedes. Pulled in
besides me and started showing me
something. I just freaked out, jumped
into my car and started zooming away. He
looked suspicious. So as I go I thought,
you know, I have a better car than him.
Let's see what he can do. So he I can
see he's not going to catch up with me.
I start driving. Fine. Take over one
car, another car. Then I start seeing
this guy just chasing after me. He's
taking over all the cars with this old
Mercedes. I come into town. And I know
every town in uh in Morocco has uh
checkpoints. Very safe. They have
checkpoints all along the highways. I
thought, let's get to the town. Let's
speed up, get to the checkpoint. If if
he's any trouble, I'll pull into besides
the police. Anyway, I pulled in to I
come to the town and I see there's no
police anywhere uh to be seen. Actually,
they were in the end of the city, the
other side of the roundabout. I couldn't
see them. I came down like a on a on a
hill, so I couldn't see any police. I
decided I have to I definitely there was
like big humps. So I started
you know going quickly over the humps um
because if he chases me if he's
definitely chasing me he's going to do
the same. So I can see he's chasing over
all the cars. He's doing the same. He's
definitely chasing after me. So I come
to a petrol station and I saw two
entrances. I decided, you know what? Let
me go to the entrance and because I was
afraid all along he's going to block me
on the on the roof mountain passes and
then I won't be able to if he's trying
to do something evil, he's just going
to, you know, block me off. Anyway,
[sighs] I go to I come to the petrol. I
think look, if he if he block tries to
block me, I can see I'll just turn
around the other side of the of the
petrol station and then zoom out and
then try to find some police somewhere.
Anyway, and um I stop at the petrol
station. He stops alongside me. I pull
down my window. He pulls down his window
and ask him what's your problem? He
says, "Do you smoke?" I said, "No." "Do
you want to buy some kashish?" So I'm
like, "No." Okay. Now he started, "Okay,
that's all he wanted." And then he zooms
off. That's was a scare. Anyway, good
story. Okay, this parking we booked our
hotel apartment next to this one, but
it's fully booked. Parking here is
crazy. Let's see what these guys can
help.
>> [laughter]
>> Good, good. I am with my friend.
>> My friend. Okay. We don't know where
we're going. We're just following. This
guy just jumped into my car. Hello.
Hello. Habibi. Wait. You You live in Ree
and they make they grow marijuana.
>> Ree mountain where they grow.
>> Grow marijuana. This is his work.
>> Yeah. My work. Yes.
>> How you smoke every day?
>> Uh every day I smoke. Yes.
>> Now also
>> now I smoke before 1 hour before.
>> Oh.
>> He's going to park. Let's see. He's
going to take the car.
I'm using the camera from this guy.
>> Careful. Careful.
>> Wow.
I want to make you good place
number one.
Good morning from Chef Shawan,
Morocco.
Look at this. Everything is colored
blue. The flower pots. This city had a
lot of Jews who escaped from Spain after
the expulsion in 1492 came to live here.
Some say they painted
these walls blue to mark the [music]
fact that it's a Jewish city. Also, some
say that was a special mosquito
repellent that they put on the wall and
that's why it turned blue and they kept
the color blue because that was that
became the style. It's early morning,
nice and quiet. It gets crazy busy
during the day here. There's the Kisba
the citadel. That's how the city
started.
The mosque
the square. [music] This guy wants to
sponsor a trip. Should we let him
sponsor? and he can take you around.
Yeah. See, [music] what's your name?
>> What's your name?
>> Man.
>> Atman. You're good, man. I take
pictures.
>> What? Two.
>> Okay. Free sponsorship. Ooh. You go to
Germany?
>> Yes. Germany.
>> Yes.
>> English.
>> No.
[music]
>> Espanol.
>> No.
>> Okay. Give it to you.
>> I take it. Thank you. Traditional B
clothing. Look at this. Parame pajamas.
These are the hats that go around here
locally with the pom poms. Still hats
with pom poms.
>> This is the mela the Jewish quarter.
Once was the Jewish quarter.
Lots of Jews lived there. Everyone left.
The only thing Jewish remaining is the
Jewish cemetery.
Yeah. Arrived. It was locked but they
opened up.
Maraba Maraba
look there's a [music] mikvah
children's playground places to stay
okay this is the ka
when I finally to get here finally
grew up in he then came here as a shad
to collect money for the poor people of
Isra Israel I think in the 1700s uh he
was here for 10 years then to help the
communities here eventually went back to
his son his only son became sick
and he wanted to go to Muslim it was
under the Turkish rule then and a Jew
was not allowed in so he went in
disguised as a as a as a Muslim somebody
recognized him and [music] the kabi
uh wanted to arrest him. So he had to
escape. So where [music] could he escape
to the entire region of the Middle East
was controlled by the by the Turkish by
the Ottomans. So he went to a place that
he knew all the way to Morocco past
Egypt, Libya, all came here back to
Morocco.
But Sonheim, one of the things he tried
to do actually was try to bring the G
really worked
and Sonheim was still unwell. So story
goes that he asked to change the years
with his son
Schumer. So he passed away here. I think
in 1734 I think. Um here we go. [music]
5542 probably 1742. I guess [music] I
have to check the dates. Anyway,
so there's a ve here and some say tishov
is used as officially ta ta but you can
see it there. Some say he was actually
tishable because he tried to bring
mashia but they only do do it
so he can make the alula should be
um after the days of mourning. Anyway,
he asked to be he [music] actually
pointed that this he came here. That's
what they say. Story goes. They came
under this ancient
olive tree and said here he wants to be
buried. You can see it's part of the
matsa
the ancient tree. It's really old. Look
at it's rotten. Yeah. And a sanim
[music] survived. The shield police
officer is trying to get us access, but
nobody's answering. It's really quiet
today. But you can see showed before how
many also a climb there. You can see
here Vazan. It's just outside Wazan.
It's actually not in Wazan. It's about 5
minutes drive from Wan. A small village.
Okay. The guy arrived. [music] Thank
you.
You open up. Sure. [music] Thank you so
much.
Oh, it's a picture of the king.
Here we go. Let's trick some people's
hiding here
behind the pole. Look, let's stop
somebody.
We wait for the police to take our
details. Let's check out this river.
green. Look at the color.
Tons of dirt and rubbish.
>> Take it. No, no, no, no, no, no. Take
it.
>> Hey, too quick. Take it.
Okay. Today we're going to the kosher
restaurant here. There's a milky one.
There is a Oops. There's a couple of the
on the same street. There's a new one
here. Didn't see it last time.
There's this one.
Smaller one. Shalom. Shalom.
And this one has been there for a long
time. Wasabi. [music]
>> It's made from sugar cane.
>> Oh, no. No. [music]
This food.